The word cosmetics derives from the Greek κοσμητική τέχνη (kosmetikē
tekhnē), meaning "art of dress and ornament", from
κοσμητικός (kosmētikos), "skilled in ordering or
arranging"[1] and that from κόσμος (kosmos), meaning amongst
others "order" and "ornament".[2]
The manufacture of cosmetics is currently dominated by a
small number of multinational corporations that originated
in the early 20th century, but the distribution and sale of
cosmetics is spread among a wide range of different
businesses. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA)
which regulates cosmetics in the United States[3] defines
cosmetics as: "intended to be applied to the human body for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or
altering the appearance without affecting the body's
structure or functions." This broad definition includes, as
well, any material intended for use as a component of a
cosmetic product. The FDA specifically excludes soap from
this category.[4]
History
Nefertiti bust with eye liner applied
Main article: History of cosmetics
The first archaeological evidence of cosmetics usage was
found in Egypt around 3500 BC during the Ancient Egypt times
with some of royalty owning make-up, such as Nefertiti,
Nefertari, mask of Tutankhamun, etc. The Ancient Greeks and
Romans also used cosmetics.[5][6] The Romans and Ancient
Egyptians used cosmetics containing poisonous mercury and
often lead. The ancient kingdom of Israel was influenced by
cosmetics as recorded in the Old Testament—2 Kings 9:30
where Jezebel painted her eyelids—approximately 840 BC. The
Biblical book of Esther describes various beauty treatments
as well.
In the Middle Ages, although its use was frowned upon by
Church leaders, many women still wore cosmetics. A popular
fad for women during the Middle Ages was to have a
pale-skinned complexion, which was achieved through either
applying pastes of lead, chalk, or flour, or by
bloodletting. Women would also put white lead pigment that
was known as "ceruse" on their faces to appear to have pale
skin.[7]
Cosmetic use was frowned upon at many points in Western
history. For example, in the 19th century, make-up was used
primarily by prostitutes, and Queen Victoria publicly
declared makeup improper, vulgar, and acceptable only for
use by actors.[8] Adolf Hitler told women that face painting
was for clowns and not for the women of the master
race.[citation needed]
Women in the 19th century liked to be thought of as fragile
ladies. They compared themselves to delicate flowers and
emphasised their delicacy and femininity. They aimed always
to look pale and interesting. Sometimes ladies discreetly
used a little rouge on the cheeks, and used "belladonna" to
dilate their eyes to make their eyes stand out more. Make-up
was frowned upon in general especially during the 1870s when
social etiquette became more rigid.
Actresses however were allowed to use make up and famous
beauties such as Sarah Bernhardt and Lillie Langtry could be
powdered. Most cosmetic products available were still either
chemically dubious, or found in the kitchen amid food
colorings, berries and beetroot.
By the middle of the 20th century, cosmetics were in
widespread use by women in nearly all industrial societies
around the world.
Cosmetics have been in use for thousands of years. The
absence of regulation of the manufacture and use of
cosmetics has led to negative side effects, deformities,
blindness, and even death through the ages. Examples of this
were the prevalent use of ceruse (white lead), to cover the
face during the Renaissance, and blindness caused by the
mascara Lash Lure during the early 20th century.
The worldwide annual expenditures for cosmetics today is
estimated at $19 billion.[9] Of the major firms, the largest
is L'Oréal, which was founded by Eugene Schueller in 1909 as
the French Harmless Hair Colouring Company (now owned by
Liliane Bettencourt 26% and Nestlé 28%; the remaining 46% is
traded publicly). The market was developed in the USA during
the 1910s by Elizabeth Arden, Helena Rubinstein, and Max
Factor. These firms were joined by Revlon just before World
War II and Estée Lauder just after.
Beauty products are now widely available from dedicated
internet-only retailers,[10] who have more recently been
joined online by established outlets, including the major
department stores and traditional bricks and mortar beauty
retailers.
Like most industries, cosmetic companies resist regulation
by government agencies like the FDA, and have lobbied
against this throughout the years. The FDA does not have to
approve or review the cosmetics, or what goes in them before
they are sold to the consumers. The FDA only regulates
against the colors that can be used in the cosmetics and
hair dyes. The cosmetic companies do not have to report any
injuries from the products; they also only have voluntary
recalls on products.[11]
Criticism and controversy
Further information: Campaign for Safe Cosmetics and Testing
cosmetics on animals
During the 20th century, the popularity of cosmetics has
increased rapidly.[citation needed] Cosmetics are used by
girls at an increasingly young age, especially in the United
States. Due to the fast-decreasing age of make-up users,
many companies, from high-street brands like Rimmel to
higher-end products like Estee Lauder, have catered to this
expanding market by introducing more flavored lipsticks and
glosses, cosmetics packaged in glittery, sparkly packaging
and marketing and advertising using young models.[citation
needed] The social consequences of younger and younger
beautification has had much attention in the media over the
last few years.
Criticism of cosmetics has come from a variety of sources
including some feminists, Islamists, Christianists, animal
rights activists, authors and public interest groups. There
is a growing awareness and preference for cosmetics that are
without any supposedly toxic ingredients, especially those
derived from petroleum, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), and
parabens.[12]
Numerous published reports have raised concern over the
safety of a few surfactants. SLS causes a number of skin
issues including dermatitis.[13][14][15][16][17]
Parabens can cause skin irritation and contact dermatitis in
individuals with paraben allergies, a small percentage of
the general population.[18] Animal experiments have shown
that parabens have a weak estrogenic activity, acting as
xenoestrogens.[19]
Prolonged use of makeup has also been linked to thinning
eyelashes.[20]
Synthetic fragrances are widely used in consumer products.
Studies concluded from patch testing show synthetic
fragrances are made of many ingredients which cause allergic
reactions.[21]
Cosmetics companies have been criticised for making
pseudoscientific claims about their products which are
misleading or unsupported by scientific evidence.[22][23]
Makeup types
* Lipstick, lip gloss, lip liner, lip plumper, lip balm, lip
conditioner, lip primer, and lip boosters.[3]
* Foundation, used to smooth out the face and cover spots or
uneven skin coloration. Usually a liquid, cream, or
powder.[3] Foundation primer can be applied before to get a
smoother finish.
* Powder, used to set the foundation, giving a matte finish,
and also to conceal small flaws or blemishes.
* Rouge, blush or blusher, cheek coloring used to bring out
the color in the cheeks and make the cheekbones appear more
defined. This comes in powder, cream, and liquid forms.[3]
* Bronzer, used to give skin a bit of color by adding a
golden or bronze glow.[3]
* Mascara is used to darken, lengthen, and thicken the
eyelashes. It is available in natural colors such as brown
and black, but also comes in bolder colors such as blue,
pink, or purple. There are many different formulas,
including waterproof for those prone to allergies or sudden
tears. Often used after an eyelash curler and mascara
primer.[3]
Eye shadow being applied
Broadway actor Jim Brochu applies make-up before the opening
night of a play.
The chin mask known as chutti for Kathakali, a performing
art in Kerala, India is considered the thickest makeup
applied for any artform.
* Eyelid glue, eye liner, eye shadow, eye shimmer, and
glitter eye pencils as well as different color pencils used
to color and emphasize the eyelids (larger eyes give a more
youthful appearance).[3]
* Eyebrow pencils, creams, waxes, gels and powders are used
to color and define the brows.[3]
* Nail polish, used to color the fingernails and
toenails.[3]
* Concealer, Makeup used to cover any imperfections of the
skin.
Cosmetics can also be described by the form of the product,
as well as the area for application.
Cosmetics can be liquid or cream emulsions; powders, both
pressed and loose; dispersions; and anhydrous creams or
sticks.
Lip stain is a cosmetic product that contains either water
or a gel base. To help the product stay on the lips, many
stains may contain alcohol. These lip coloring products are
available in a variety of formulas, colors, and application
types. The idea behind lip stains is to temporarily saturate
the lips with color with a dye, rather than applying a
colored wax to the lips to color them. A lip stain is
usually designed to be waterproof so that the color will be
long lasting, and once the stain dries, it should not smear,
stain, wear unevenly, or transfer to the teeth. A lip stain
may come in a bottle with an applicator which is used to
brush the stain onto the lips, and it can also come in a
small jar, with users applying the stain with a finger or a
cosmetic brush.
Make-up remover is the product used to remove the make-up
products applied on the skin. It is used for cleaning the
skin for other procedures, like applying any type of lotion
at evening before the person go to sleep.
Skin care products
Also included in the general category of cosmetics are skin
care products. These include creams and lotions to
moisturize the face and body which are often formulated for
different skin types per range, sunscreens to protect the
skin from UV radiation and damage, skin lighteners, and
treatment products to repair or hide skin imperfections
(acne, wrinkles, dark circles under eyes, etc.), tanning
oils to brown the skin.
Ingredients
Main article: Ingredients of cosmetics
While there is assurance from the largest cosmetic companies
that ingredients have passed quality tests and official
regulations, and are therefore generally safe to use, there
is a growing preference for cosmetics that are without any
"synthetic" ingredients, especially those derived from
petroleum. Once a niche market, handmade and certified
organic products are becoming more mainstream.
Ingredients' listings in cosmetics are highly regulated in
many countries. The testing of cosmetic products on animals
is a subject of some controversy. It is now illegal in the
United Kingdom, the Netherlands, and Belgium, and a ban
across the European Union is due to come into effect in
2009.
Organic and natural ingredients
Even though many cosmetic products are regulated, there are
still health concerns regarding the presence of harmful
chemicals within these products.[citation needed] Aside from
color additives, cosmetic products and their ingredients are
not subject to FDA regulation prior to their release into
the market. It is only when a product is found to violate
Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) and Fair
Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA) after its release that the
FDA may start taking action against this violation.[24] With
many new products released into the market every season, it
is hard to keep track of the safety of every product. Some
products carry carcinogenic contaminant 1,4- dioxane. Many
cosmetic companies are coming out with "All natural" and
organic products. All natural products contain mineral and
plant ingredients and organic products are made with organic
agricultural products. Products who claim they are organic
are not, unless they are certified "USDA Organic."[25][26]
See also: natural skin care
Cosmetic industry
The cosmetic industry is a profitable business for most
manufacturers of cosmetic products. By cosmetic products, we
understand anything that is intended for personal care such
as skin lotions or sun lotions, makeup and other such
products meant to emphasize one's look. Given the
technological development and the improvement of the
manufacturing process of cosmetics and not least due to the
constantly increasing demand of such products, this industry
reported an important growth in terms of profit.
The cosmetic industry has not only grown only in the United
States, but also in various parts of the world which have
become famous for their cosmetic precuts. Some of these
include France, Germany, Italy and Japan. It has been
estimated that in Germany, the cosmetic industry generated
sales of EUR 12.6 billion at retail sales, in 2008 [27]
which made of German cosmetic industry the 3rd in the world,
after Japan and the United States. Also, it has been shown
that in the same country, this industry has grown with
nearly 5 percent in one year, from 2007 to 2008. The exports
of Germany in this industry reached in 2008 EUR 5.8 billion
whereas the imports of cosmetics totaled EUR 3 billion.[27]
The main countries that export cosmetics to Germany are
France, Switzerland, the United States and Italy and they
mainly consist of makeup and fragrances or perfumes for
women.
After the United States, Japan is the second largest market
for cosmetics in the world, a market worth about JPY 1.4
trillion per year.[28]
The worldwide cosmetics and perfume industry currently
generates an estimated annual turnover of US$170 billion
(according to Eurostaf - May 2007). Europe is the leading
market, representing approximately €63 billion, while sales
in France reached €6.5 billion in 2006, according to FIPAR (Fédération
des Industries de la Parfumerie - the French federation for
the perfume industry).[29] France is another country in
which the cosmetic industry plays an important role, both
nationally and internationally. Most products on whose label
it is stated "Made in France" are valued on the
international market. According to data from 2008, the
cosmetic industry has risen constantly in France, for 40
consecutive years. In 2006, this industrial sector reached a
record level of EUR 6.5 billion. Famous cosmetic brands
produced in France include Vichy, Yves Saint Laurent, Yves
Rocher and many others.
The Italian cosmetic industry is also an important player in
the European cosmetic market. Although not as large as in
other European countries, the cosmetic industry in Italy was
estimated to reach EUR 9 billion in 2007.[30] The Italian
cosmetic industry is however dominated by hair and body
products and not makeup as in many other European countries.
In Italy, hair and body products make up approximately 30%
of the cosmetic market. Makeup and facial care however are
the first cosmetic products to be exported in the United
States.
Due to the popularity of cosmetics, especially fragrances
and perfumes, many designers who are not necessarily
involved in the cosmetic industry came up with different
perfumes carrying their names. Moreover, most actors and
singers also have their own perfume line (such as Celine
Dion). The designer perfumes are, like any other designer
products, the most expensive in the industry as the consumer
pays not only for the product but also for the brand. Famous
Italian fragrances are produced by Giorgio Armani, Dolce and
Gabbana and so on.
The European Commission and the U.S. Food and Drug
Administration (FDA) are the two bodies making legislation
in what concerns cosmetic industry and its various aspects
within the European Union, respectively in the United
States. In the European Union, the circulation of cosmetic
products and their safety are law subjects since 1976. One
of the newest amendments of the directive concerning
cosmetic industry comes as a result of the attempt to ban
animal testing. Therefore, testing cosmetic products on
animals is illegal in the European Union from September 2004
and testing separate ingredients of such products on animals
is also prohibited by law starting with March 2009.[31]
The FDA joined with thirteen other Federal agencies in
forming the Interagency Coordinating Committee on the
Validation of Alternative Methods (ICCVAM) in 1997 which is
an attempt to ban animal testing and find other methods to
test the cosmetic products.[32]
The cosmetic industry worldwide seems to be continuously
developing, now more than ever with the advent of the
Internet companies. Many famous companies sell their
cosmetic products online also in countries in which they do
not have representatives.[33]
Cosmetic careers
A professional make-up artist servicing a client
An account executive is responsible for visiting all
department and specialty store counter sales and doors. They
explain new products and "gifts with purchase" (free items
given out upon purchase of a certain cosmetics item that
costs more than a set amount).
A beauty adviser provides product advice based on the
client's skin care and makeup requirements. Beauty advisers
can become certified through the Anti-Aging Beauty
Institute.
Supermodel Alek Wek receiving make-up from a professional.
A cosmetician is a professional who provides facial and body
treatments for clients. The term cosmetologist is sometimes
used interchangeably with this term, but most commonly
refers to a certified professional. A freelance makeup
artist provides clients with beauty advice and cosmetics
assistance—usually paid by the cosmetic company by the hour.
Professionals in cosmetics marketing careers manage research
focus groups, promote the desired brand image, and provide
other marketing services (sales forecasting, allocation to
different retailers, etc.).
Those involved in cosmetics product development design,
create and refine cosmetics products. Some positions that
fall under this category include chemists, quality assurance
and packaging people.
Many involved within the cosmetics industry often specialize
in a certain area of cosmetics such as special effects
makeup or makeup techniques specific to the film, media and
fashion sectors.
See also
* Airbrush makeup
* Testing cosmetics on animals
* Body art
* Body hygiene kit
* Cosmeceutical
* Cosmetic surgery
* Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association
* Cosmetology
* DEA list of chemicals
* Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act
* Henna
* List of cosmetic ingredients
* Make-up artist
* Moulage
* Permanent makeup
* Personal care
* Pharmaceuticals and personal care products in the
environment
* Society of Cosmetic Chemists
References
1. ^ κοσμητικός, Henry George Liddell, Robert Scott, A
Greek-English Lexicon, on Perseus
2. ^ κόσμος, Henry George Liddell, Robert Scott, A
Greek-English Lexicon, on Perseus
3. ^ a b c d e f g h i Reed, Sandra I. US Department of
Health and Human Services. "Cosmetics and Your Health."
2004. May 14, 2007. [1]
4. ^ Lewis, Carol. FDA. "Clearing up Cosmetic Confusion."
The marketing industry is now targeting young girls to wear
'super cool lip gloss' and 'fairy glitter eye shadow', by
throwing them in with toys in a box and claiming that 'girls
will be girls', are they truly being girls or another
plastic?
5. ^ Lesley Adkins, Roy A. Adkins, Handbook to life in
Ancient Greece, Oxford University Press, 1998
6. ^ Bruno Burlando, Luisella Verotta, Laura Cornara, and
Elisa Bottini-Massa, Herbal Principles in Cosmetics, CRC
Press, 2010
7. ^ Rao,prathiba, cosmetics and personal care products, vol
1, pp 380-382,Elsevier inc, 1998
8. ^ Pallingston, J (1998). Lipstick: A Celebration of the
World's Favorite Cosmetic. St. Martin's Press. ISBN
0312199147.
9. ^ "As Consumerism Spreads, Earth Suffers, Study Says".
National Geographic: pp. 2. http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2004/01/0111_040112_consumerism_2.html.
Retrieved 2007-08-21.
10. ^ "Lessons from categorising the entire beauty products
sector (Part 1)". pp. 1. http://www.beautynow.co.uk/blog/beauty-products-part-1-522.html.
Retrieved 2009-09-28.
11. ^ "cosmetics and your health." womensheatlh.gov.nd.web.4
nov 2004
12. ^ "Signers of the Compact for Safe Cosmetics". Campaign
for Safe Cosmetics. Archived from the original on
2007-06-09. http://web.archive.org/web/20070609155356/http://www.safecosmetics.org/companies/signers.cfm.
Retrieved 2007-07-05.
13. ^ Agner T (1991). "Susceptibility of atopic dermatitis
patients to irritant dermatitis caused by sodium lauryl
sulphate". Acta Derm. Venereol. 71 (4): 296–300. PMID
1681644.
14. ^ Nassif A, Chan SC, Storrs FJ, Hanifin JM (November
1994). "Abnormal skin irritancy in atopic dermatitis and in
atopy without dermatitis". Arch Dermatol 130 (11): 1402–7.
doi:10.1001/archderm.130.11.1402. PMID 7979441. http://www.jem.org/cgi/content/full/195/7/855.
15. ^ Marrakchi S, Maibach HI (2006). "Sodium lauryl
sulfate-induced irritation in the human face: regional and
age-related differences". Skin Pharmacol Physiol 19 (3):
177–80. doi:10.1159/000093112. PMID 16679819.
16. ^ CIR publication. Final Report on the Safety Assessment
of Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate.
Journal of the American College of Toxicology. 1983 Vol. 2
(No. 7) pages 127–181.
17. ^ Löffler H, Effendy I (May 1999). "Skin susceptibility
of atopic individuals". Contact Derm. 40 (5): 239–42.
doi:10.1111/j.1600-0536.1999.tb06056.x. PMID 10344477.
18. ^ Nagel JE, Fuscaldo JT, Fireman P (April 1977). "Paraben
allergy". JAMA 237 (15): 1594–5.
doi:10.1001/jama.237.15.1594. PMID 576658.
19. ^ Byford JR, Shaw LE, Drew MG, Pope GS, Sauer MJ, Darbre
PD (January 2002). "Oestrogenic activity of parabens in MCF7
human breast cancer cells". J. Steroid Biochem. Mol. Biol.
80 (1): 49–60. doi:10.1016/S0960-0760(01)00174-1. PMID
11867263. http://linkinghub.elsevier.com/retrieve/pii/S0960076001001741.
20. ^ Towards Beautiful Eyes – Solutions for Thinning Lashes
and Dark Patches, Kamau Austin.
21. ^ Frosch PJ, Pilz B, Andersen KE, et al. (November
1995). "Patch testing with fragrances: results of a
multicenter study of the European Environmental and Contact
Dermatitis Research Group with 48 frequently used
constituents of perfumes". Contact Derm. 33 (5): 333–42.
doi:10.1111/j.1600-0536.1995.tb02048.x. PMID 8565489.
22. ^ http://news.scotsman.com/latestnews/-Pseudo-science-can39t-cover.3606975.jp
23. ^ http://www.badscience.net/category/cosmetics/
24. ^ http://www.cfsan.fda.gov/~dms/cos-206.html
25. ^ Singer, Natasha. "Natural, Organic Beauty." New York
Times. 1 Nov. 2007. 18 Mar. 2008
26. ^ <http://www.nytimes.com/2007/11/01/fashion/01skin.html?_r=1&oref=slogin>
27. ^ a b "Cosmetic Industry". http://www.german-business-portal.info/GBP/Navigation/en/Business-Location/Manufacturing%20Industries/cosmetics-industry,did=326082.html.
Retrieved 2010-08-04.
28. ^ "Blueprint for a Cosmetics Empire". http://www.japaninc.com/article.php?articleID=1390.
Retrieved 2010-08-04.
29. ^ "France continues to lead the way in cosmetics".
http://www.clickpress.com/releases/Detailed/82987005cp.shtml.
Retrieved 2010-08-04.
30. ^ "Cosmetics - Europe (Italy) 2008 Marketing Research".
http://researchwikis.com/Cosmetics_-_Europe_%28Italy%29_2008_Marketing_Research.
Retrieved 2010-08-04.
31. ^ "Regulatory context". http://ec.europa.eu/consumers/sectors/cosmetics/animal-testing/index_en.htm.
Retrieved 2010-08-04.
32. ^ "Animal Testing". http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandIngredientSafety/ProductTesting/ucm072268.htm.
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Further reading
Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Cosmetics
* Winter, Ruth (2005) [2005] (in English). A Consumer's
Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients: Complete Information
About the Harmful and Desirable Ingredients in Cosmetics
(Paperback). USA: Three Rivers Press. ISBN 1400052335.
* Begoun, Paula (2003) [2003] (in English). Don't Go to the
Cosmetics Counter Without Me(Paperback). USA: Beginning
Press. ISBN 1877988308.
* Carrasco, Francisco (2009) [2009] (in Spanish).
Diccionario de Ingredientes Cosmeticos(Paperback). Spain:
www.imagenpersonal.net. ISBN 9788461349791.
[hide]v · d · eCosmetics
Products
Lips
Lip gloss · Lip liner · Lip plumper · Lipstick
Face
Concealer · Foundation · Face powder · Rouge · Bindi ·
Thanaka · Tilaka · Cleanser-Toner-Moisturizer
Eyes
Eye liner · Eye shadow · Kohl · Mascara
Other
Shampoo-Conditioner-Styling cream · Nail polish · Anti-aging
cream · Body powder · Cold cream · Sindoor
Cosmetics.JPG
Ingredients
International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients · List of
ingredients
Related topics
Cosmetic advertising · Beauty salon · Spa · Cosmetology ·
History of cosmetics
Treatments
Cosmetic surgery · Botox · Facial · Bleaching · Manicure ·
Pedicure · Hair removal (Waxing-Threading-Shaving) · Hair
styling
